Improvement in lappet or embroidering-loom



N4 PETERS. PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHNGTON, D, C.

FREDERICK W. NEWTON, OF SOUTH ORANGEJNEW JERSEY,

Letters Patent No. 84,7 53, dated December 8, l88r `IMPROVENIENT IN LAPPET VOR EMBROIDERING-LOOM.

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

To whomjit ma/y concern Beit known that I, FREDERICK W. NEWTON, of South Orange, county of Essex, and vState of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful In1- provements in the Fancy Power-Loom coninionl known as the Lappet-Loomg and that this speciliycation contains a full and vaccurate .description of my invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part thereof.

The nature of this invention is the adaptation of the lappet-loom to producing, not only a better class of work than it has heretofore done,'but.also tothe weaving of large and flowing figures, such as are suitfable' for the borders of gered skirts or dresses, either woven on the body of the garment, or separately, and attached afterwards.

The figures produced by the lappet-looln have heretofore been very limited in their longitudinal section, by the fact that in all lappet-looms run by'power, the stitch-motion has been an adjunct of the patternmechanism, both the stitch and the pattern being generally made by the lappet-wheel, the scope of which was necessarily limited, and in adapting the loom to a class of work requiring a large circular or irregular ligure, I have found it necessary to separate the stitchingmechanism from the pattern-mechanism, in order that the pattern-mechanism might have scope sufficient for the pattern desired. For this purpose I have found it essential that the two mechanisms be actuated by different powers, or by connecting them with the same power, but through intermediate gearing or other suitable attachment, so as to give each mechanism a motion distinct from the other.

My invention consists in means for giving the whipyarns to the needles, in definite adjustable quantities, without tension, besides other arrangements and combinations of parts, which will be found hereinaiter fully described. I

In the accompanying drawings- Figure l gives an end elevation of ,a loom, showing the position and connections of" one arrangement of the pattern-mechanism.

Figure 2 is a sectional View, the pattern-wheel b and stud a being removed, showing the position and connection of one arrangement of the stitching-mechanism.

Figure 3 is a rear elevation of the lay, showing the position of the needle-bar and let-o rolls, and their connection with the pattern and stitch-mechanism.

Figure 4 is au obverse elevation of the ratchetswheel u, showing its position'and connection with the pawl Q, the lever n, wedge-bar I, and pins W.

Figure 5 is a front elevation of the lay, showing the position of the pin-bar and lifting-apparatus, together with the cloth-beam.

Figure 6 shows the friction-rollers and combined spur and ratchet Gr.

Figure 7 is al section ofthe lifting-rod h with the liftingcam roller j. Y

Figure 8 shows the bottom of the pawl Q, with the position of the slot in which 'the bearing Sis adjusted.

Figure, 9 shows the position of the guide-strip m and its connection'with the needle-bars and theneedles and pins. V

Figure 10 shows the stand a, with its connections witli'y and z.

Figure V11 shows the friction-sleeve d.

Figure 12shows the Voperation of the friction-gear,

N, the stitch-lever1 P, and the stitch-bar O.

Figure 13 shows the under side of the compound rack H. p.

Figure 14 shows the .cloth-beam p in juxtaposition with the conical spools o. v

Figure 16 shows one of the conical spools detached.

Figure 1S shows an arrangementof the stitching and pattern-mechanisms, in which the pattern-mechanism is connected with the stitch-wheel by a lever.

Figure 19 shows another arrangement of the pattern-mechanism and stitching-mechanism.

Figure 2() shows still another arrangement of the stitching and pattern-mechanisms.

` Figure 21 shows a device for expanding the conical spools and cloth-beam.

A is the frame of the loom.

B, the lay.

C C, the lay-swords.

D, the pin-bar and pins.

E, the needle-bar and needles.

F, the let-off rollers. l

G, compound ratchet' and pinion-wheel, to regulate the motion of the let-oii rollers.`

H, compound rack.

I I, double-wedge bar, to give motion to the rack H.

J, spring to hold the rack Hagainst the compound pinion Gr.

M, traverse-bar with upright stand. v

N, friction-gear, to give the stitchmotion to the Atraverse-bar M.

O, stitch-bar. l?, stitch-lever. Q, sliding pawl. 1t, pin that stops-the slide in the pawl. S, movable bearingfor the slide in the pawl. T T, bearings of the Aswords of the lay. U, ratchet-wheel for making the stitch. V, stiteh-swells or teeth. v W, pins for giving motion to the spur-wheel Y. Y, spur-wheel. Z, pinion-wheel. (t, stand for supporting Y and Z. b, pattern-wheel. c, pattern-rim.

d, friction-sleeve and stand for the lever e. e, traverse or pattern-lever. j, bearing. n g, friction-nut. h, lifting-rod.

i fi, lifting-rollers.

j, cam-roller.

k k, upright Vbars for lifting the pin-bar and needlebar.

l, lifting-strap.

fm, guide for pi'ns.

n, horizontal lever for moving the wedge-bar.

o, conical spools for the warp.

1), cloth-beam in conical sect-ions.

lir* 1', arms attached to the traverse-bar for the pur- .pose of giving lateral motion to the friction-rollers F.,

s, the reed.

The gs. 1S, 1S), 20, and 21, modifications ofmy invention, are hereinafter described.

The peculia-r motion required for the formation of the embroidered figure in a lappet-loom is obtained from the operation of the patterli-mechanism, which, in the arrangement shown in the drawings, isplaced upon the stud which forms the axis ofthe lay-sword, although I do not wish to be understood as being confined to placing the colnbined stitching and patternmechanisms, operating as described, upon this part of the loom.

The form of carrying outniy invention, that I have shown in the drawings hereto annexed, consists of two wheels, Uand l, placedbside by side on the same axis, having intermediate gearing, and they are moved by the movement of .the lay itself. v

As the lay rocks back and forth, these wheels and stand rock with it, and the required motion is given by the action of the sliding pawl Q.

rlhis pawl is fastened to the floor or frame of the loom, and is adjusted to take as many teeth in the ratchet-wheelUas may be wanted. If but one tooth is required, the slide-catch is adjusted by the pin 1t and the movable bearing S, so that the catch will slide out for the whole distance of thel stroke of the lay, except one tooth, allowing the ratchet-wheel to go with the lay until the slide is stopped by the pin, which holds the ratchet during the remainder of the stroke As the la y rocks back, the slide slips back by its own weight, or, if `1106SS2I3Ab a spring may' be attached, to insure its coming back.

I f it is desirable to take two or more teeth, the slide is adjusted accordingly.

'To make this arrangement work properly, it is bete ter that the number of teeth in the ratchet should be such a number as will be divisible by the numberl of strokes that the lay would make in going entirely around and making a complete circle.

The lay ordinarily moves the twenty-fifth or twentysixth part of a circle at a stroke, and the number of ratchet-teeth must then divide by twenty-five or twenty-six, as the case may be.

In order to correct any lost motion that may occur, the bearings of the crank-arms might be so a-iiixed to the lay that they could be raised or. lowered.

Upon the ratchet-wheel U is a raised rim upon which l are fastened the stitch-swells or teeth V. .These swells must correspond with the number of teeth in the ratchet Uin the proportion of one to two, one to four, one to eight, che.'

If it is desirable to make a stitch-movement at every pick, (the pawl being set for one tooth,) there must be one swell to two ratchet-teeth. If for every two picks, one swell to four ratchet-teeth, &c.

rlhe swells are arranged with slots aud fastened with screws, so that they can be adj usted as to weight, thereby enabling me to make stitches of' unequal lengths. The swells may he of varied length, also, using a less number, and covering any desirable number of teeth in the ratchet. The swells may also be arranged on a chain, instead of on the rim of a wheel, thereby giving greater scope to the principle of varying the pattern by using stitches of ditferent lengths. v

Upon the side of the wheel U is placed a concentric By the use of the pins W,II can not only vary the speed of the pattern-wheel, but I can give it au irregular mot-ion, or keep it entirely still by removing a part or all of the pins from U.

Thenever the ligure is formed, partly by the adjustment of the swells, to diii'erent heights, it-will obviously be necessary that one revolution of the pattern-wheel b should be equal to some number o f complete revolutions ofthe stitch-wheel U.

The'staud a., which is a part of a disk, is made fast to the shaft- T, by a key or steady-pin, but so as to slide on the key or steady-pin; and this stand, by its frictional contact with the wheel U, holds it from slipping when not positively moved.

This friction is regulated by the nut g, which presses i against the sleeve d. This sleeve passes through the stand f, thus forming a bea-ring for the shaft T, and at the same time binding the whole together.

The placing the wheels U and b upon the same shaft,

and gearing them together, 01 connecting them in any manner so that b takes its motion from U, is purely a matter of convenience vand economy of room, as it is quite easy to arrange them; so that they could be actuated by distinct powers. The sleeve Z has a vertical stand or projection, in which isa slot to receive a stud, which is the fulcrum ot the lever e. This lever bears against the patternrim c, and is held in position by the action of a spring attached to -thel traverse-bar M, which draws the traverse-bar, and everything attached to it, towards the other end ofthe lay.

The pattern-rim c is movable, andis attached to the wheel b by screws. As the pattern revolves, its projections push out the lever e, and its depressions allow it to come back, thereby giving the needles the motion which makes the tigure on the cloth.

By raising or lowering the fulcrum of the lever e, a greater or less tia-verse is given to the needles.

The lever e passes, at it-s upper end, into a slot or bracket in the traverse-bar M, giving it the outward motion. The inward motion is caused by a spring or weight.

The stitch-movement is caused by the stitch-bar O, the lower arm of which is lifted by the movement of the teeth or swells V. The upper side of thisl arm raises thevheel of the stitch-lever P, and throws out its upright arm. t Y

To this arm is attached a steel wire, either round or dat, which has a turn around the pulley N. When the lever P is at rest, the wire does not bind the pulley so tightly but that it will allow the pulley to slide in the bight ofthe wire without revolving; but as the lever P is drawn back, it tightens its hold'on the pulley so much as to cause it to revolve sufficiently to move the traverse-bar as much as is necessary to form the stitch without interfering with its motion in shaping thel figure. This wire is attached, at its other end, to a spring, so adjusted as to be at rest when the stitchbar is down.

The bar 0 and lever l? may be varied in shape or position, as practice may show to be desirable.

The stitch itself is formed by the lateral movement given to the needles by the stitch-gear N. As the needles fall down below the warp, the stitch-movement throws the needles under one or more threads of the warp, so that when the needles riseagain, 4and the shuttle goes under the whip-yam, it forms a stitch. The needles then drop, are'thrown again the other way under one or more threads of the warp, and then up, as before.

The stitch-motion may be made at every stroke, or every two or more strokes of the lay, according to the adjustment of the swells andthe pawl Q.

The combination of the stitching-mechanism and the pattern-mechanism, with the other arrangements ofthe loom, may be ei'ected in another manner, as shown in fig. 18.

In this iigure, No. 1 is the frame of the loom; 2 is the cam-shaft, on which is placed a worm, 4, which turns lthe worm-gear This moves the cone-pulleys, 33,1vhich again transmits motion by another worm, 14, to the worm-gear 7. This worm-wheel is fast to the shaft of the pattern-wheel 6, whiclrthus obtains a very slow motion, which is communicated by the lever 12 to the stitch-wheel i), sliding or traversing this wheel on'the 'stud 13.

The stitch-teeth of the wheel 9 operate on the bit or projection of the stitch-lever 10, which lever is made fast, at its upper end, to the loom-side. At the lower' end it transmits its mot-ion, through the universal joint 11, to the needle-bars, which are pla-ced on the lay, as usual. Thus the stitch and pattern-motions are both transmitted through the stitch-wheel to the lever 10.

The wheel 9 is revolved on its shaft by a pawl, (made as broad as the traverse of the wheel reqnires,) which givesthe stitch-motion, while the pattern-caniJ (i, shapes the figure on the cloth.r

Fig. 19 gives another-plan of stitching. The patterninechanisni is the same as in iig. 1S, butin this arrangement I do notV use the stitch-wheel at all, but instead of it I put an eccentric on the cam-shaft, just behind the worm, and to the strap of this eccentric I attach a stitch-bar, 15, which is pushed, by the eccentric, between the bit ofthe lever 10 and a-n upright pin standing near the end ofthe lever 12.

As the eccentric draws the bar l5 back, the bit of 1() slips from the broad to the narrow part ofthe lever 15, thus giving the stitch-lever the same motion that it has from the stitch-teeth, in the stitch-wheell, or from the operation of the stitch-swells V, in the stitchwheel U, heretofore desciibed. v

The cone-pulleys regulate the speed of the patterncam 6, and thereby govern the length of the pattern on the cloth.

Fig. 20 gives another arrangementof the stitching and pattern-1nechanisms, in which I dispense with the cone-pulleys. I place the worm, 4, on the cam-shaft, as before, and thereby move the worm-wheel 5; but instead of cone-pulleys, I use a pin-wheel, 24, to regulate the motion ofthe pattern-mechanism.v

In theperiphery of the wheel 24, I place a'row of movable pms, which play into the slanting gear-teeth of the pattern-wheel 23. By this means, I obtainthe effect of an adjustable worm-gear, as I can, by -removing pins,vchange and regulate the motion of the pattern-wheel 23 at pleasure.

The stitch is made by the cam 1S, which moves in the square flame 19, thereby raising and lowering the lever 22. This lever is hun on a bearing made to allow the lever to be moved laterally 'and vertically. The movement of this lever is controlled by the upright bar 21 21, which is made square, and slides in the bearings-20 20 20.

The lever is held by a projection on the bar 21, which allows it to slide laterally as it is moved by the patternrim` 29;

At the end of the lever is a projection, 31, and a pin, similar in arrangement and operation to that in fig. 19, except that instead of resting against an upright lever, 10, it presses against thel end of the traverse-bar 27, which has a circular T-shaped end, to accommodate the oscillation of the lay, for it will be borne in mind that in this case the pattern-mechanism is not placed on the axis of the lay-sword, butv on an independent stud.

-On the upper side of the traverse-bar 27 is placed a sliding projection, 26, which rests over the T-shaped end of 27. At half the revolution of the cam-shaft the lever is up, andthe bit 31 rests against 26; at the other half it is down, and rests against 27, thereby giving a regular reciprocating stitch-motion to the traverse-bar.

In all these forms and ways of carrying out my in vention, the back motion is given to the needles by a weight or spring.

In all the arrangements described above, there are so many obvious ways of adjusting the length of the stitch, that I will not referto them.

For the sake of convenience, thev traverse-bar M, heretofore described, may be made shorter, and connected with the lever e, by the use of a chain; and by elevating and depressing .this chain between .rollerbearings, a stitch-motion may be made.

Also, in connecting the wheels U and l1, a system of levers and ratchet-teeth, or an arrangement of belts and pulleys, might be used, instead of spur and pinionwheels.

The traverse-bar M is, as I consider, a valuable novelty in lappet-loom's.

1n all lappet-loolns heretofore, as far as I can learn, the whip or embroidery yarn has been delivered to the needles from a beam, or spools, or bobbins, While the tension has been regulated by friction, applied to the beam, or spools, or to the yarn itself, by sliding plates, or otherwise, merely-to retain or hold back the yarn, but it has never been found possibleto obtain, by such means, a uniform delivery. The consequence has been that the stitch has never been uniform or regular.

For this reason, lappet-work has always beenV an inferior class of work. It has long been seen that if a uniform stitch could be obtained, lappet-Work would rank with embroidery. V l

I have obtained this result by passing the whip-yarn between the friction-rollers F. The yarn is put on a beam, or on spools or bobbins, as before. l A wire faller, or some equivalent arrangement, is placed so as to take up the slack, and keep the yarn straight. -It then passes between the rollers F, and thence to the needles. The rollers are covered with some material snfliciently adhesive to hold the yarn from slipping. The rollers Fare moved laterally, by the upright arms w', on the traverse-bar, so that the yarn is alwaysdirectly under the needles. Y

The lower roller slides on a square shaft, which vrevolves in bearings fixed to the sword, so that the traverse-barlunoves the rollers with the needles. The upper roller is a friction-roller, moved by the lower one.

To the end of the square shaft is fixed a combined pinion and ratchet-wheel, G, having spur and ratchetteeth side by side.

The spur-teeth play into .the rack H, as the lay comes up to the breast-beam. The spur-teeth in the rack turn the pinion-wheel and cause the rollers F to take back the whip-yarn that has been given out. When the pinion gets to the end of the spur-teeth in the rack,

it does not revolve further, but having ,a friction suf- -ticiently strong for the purpose, itslides on the rack as well as on the ratchet-teeth, and of course takes up no moreof the yarn.

The yarn thus left, is what is required for the stitch, and as soon as the stitch is formed and the slack yarn used up, the lay starts to go out. At this point the ratchet part of the wheel N catches into the ratchetteeth of the rack, and it begins at once to revolve, and give out yarn from the rollers;

The ratchet-teeth cause the pinion to revolve until it catches into the spur-teeth, and theycontinue the revolution until the end of the stroke, when the needles are full up. By this means a certain definite quantity of yarn is furnished to the needles without tension or irregularity, and the stitch is always uniform.

But it is necessary thatthe quantity of whip-yarn thus furnished to the needles should be susceptible of .variation and adjustment. I accomplish this by the use of the double-wedge bar I I, working vertically in the rack H, drawing it out or pushing itin, as the double wedge moves up and down;

When the bar rises, the inclination of the wedge draws the rack towards the breast-beam, and gives the spurteeth more action, and ofcourse causes the rollers to take up more yarn, leaving less for the stitch. Reversing the motion gives out more yarn for the stitch.

This wedge-bar is held in an upright position b y bearj ings attached tothe loom-side, and thejl'ower end rests upon the lever a. This `lower end of I is adj usted with tascrew, so that the length of yarn for the stitch can be regulated without reference to the lever Ia.

,The vertical motion is given by the piu in the stitchbar O, raising the lever n, which in turn raises I. The

' 'lever n may be adj usted by a stop-motion, which would hold the lever just out of the range of the pin in the stitch-barl O, so that in ordinary stitching, it need not be moved. except when a stitch longer than usual is wanted.

A modification of the above plan is to place the ,whipyarns on one roller, instead of passing it between two,

giving a turn completely around the roller, which should be covered with sand-paper, to give it suflicient adhesion to the yarn.

Another plan is to attach the roller. or rollers to the upright bars that raise the pin-bar, in which case they would give out and take up yarn by the action of rising and falling, and would only need suiiicient motion to give off what is wanted for the stitch.

Another' plan is to place the roller or rollers near the Y this is the case, I propose to weave the border separately from the garment, and .attach it afterwards.

To do this, I put the warp ofthe cloth upon the conical spools o, which are placed upon one shaft, and are' put in the place of the usual warp-beam. The cloth woven by this arrangement is taken up by a cloth-beam, p, or upon cloth-rollers, shaped to match the arrangement of the spools c. The lappet-work is thrown into the centre of these strips, which, when cut apart, will form circles of a radius proportioned to the difference in the diameters of the different ends of the'conical spools.

- If,in the employment of the conical spool'sit should be necessary to make the degree of taper adjustable, it can be done by cutting a screw on the shaft, to which a conical nut` may be fitted.

The spools or rollers may be made in longitudinal strips, like Y the, staves of a barrel, then fastened together' at one end, and expanding or contracting the other end by the conical nut. Fig. 21 ofthe drawings showsthe operation of the device. Y

- It has been found diicult to arrange the pin-barD so that the pins may be sufficient-ly firm, as well as in a straight line, without making the pin-bar too heavy and clumsy. It is of great importance to have the least possible weight in the pin-bar as well as the needle'bars, and especially to have then occupy the least possible space, so that the race-board may be as close as possible to the reed.

. To remedy this diiiiculty, I attach a thin strip of metal, or other suitable substance, close to the edge of the race-boardLleaving just space enough to allow the dwell when the pins are up.

pins to pass easily between the edge of .the race-board and the guid-strip. The positionv and use of this guide strip are shown by letter m, g. 9, of the drawings.

Another plan to accomplish the same result, is to bore holes in the edge of the race-board, and set it back far enough to allaw the pins to pass up through the holes, or to attach little eyes or brackets to the edge of the race-board, to guide the pins. The pin-bar, as well as the needle-bar which is attached thereto, as will be understood from the drawings, is made of thin strips of metal or other, suitable substance, and has y the pins and needles let into the edge and made fast.

In raising the pin-bar, itis necessary, in order to give the needles time to -shift their position in making the stitch, that the pin-bar should not start up until the lay has made one-fourth, or thereabouts, of a stroke, and then it should be full up when the shuttle enters the shed. j

To obtain the irregular motion necessary for this resrrlt, I make the lifting-roller j of irregular shape, in-` stead of round. The same 'result would follow from making the rollers i i of the same shape, instead of j. rIhis shape must raise the pin-.bar rapidly at first, and

In the foregoing description', I have described a loom containing only one needle-bar, but it is evident that the bar and its operating-mechanism can be duplicated, or can be used with the old or any known form of lappet-mechanism.

What I claim as my invention, and desire' to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The combination of the pattern-mechanism with the stitch-mechanism, when the two are yactuated by different powers, or are connected with the same power by intermediate gearing or attachment, so as to give to each mechanism a motion distinct from the other, substantially as described.

2. The friction-rollers or" cylinders, one or more, for the purpose of giving a definite yet adjustable quantity of whip-yarn to tlie needles without tension, substan- -tially as described.

5. The double-wedge bar I, for the purpose of reguy lating the quantity of whip-yarn to be furnished to the needles, substantially as described.

6. The lever n, in combination with the-bar O, and its pin for raising the dorrble-wedge bar, substantially as described.

7. The traverse-bar M, in combination with the needle-bar and friction-rollers, substantially as described. 8. The combined pinion and friction-wheel N, in

combination with the 'iction-wire, substantially as dee scribed and for the purpose set forth.

9. The lever e with adjustable fulcrum, in combination with the traverse-bar M, and needlebar for reguv lating its movements, substantially as described.

l0. The friction-sleeve having an upright stand, in

combination with the pattern and stitch-wheels, and traverse-lever. e, substantially as described.

1l. The combination, with the stitching-mechanism, of the adjustable pawl Q, constructed and operating substantially as described.

12. The combination of the mechanism which makes the stitch with the mechanism which gives the whipyarn to the needles, arranged and connected substantially as described, so that the motion of the mechanism which gives oii the whip-yarn to the needles may be regulated and controlled by the stitching-mechanism.

FREDERICK W. NEWTON.

Witnesses: Y

W. M. Ookfrns, A. C. JACKSON. 

